Knit Nightie with a Smocked Insert

I am all about super soft and warm fabrics right now. Something about having a winter baby makes me want to sew with nothing but flannel, corduroy, brushed twill and knit. Probably some evolutionary need to keep the new baby as warm as humanly possible. Isn’t it crazy how hard-wired we are sometimes?

Anyway, I LOVE the Children’s Corner Knit Nightie. You can find it here https://goo.gl/8SWfPR. Its available as a digital download! It is a quick sew, and in the newborn size you can usually get two of the actual gowns out of one yard of fabric (it takes some inventive fabric folding while cutting but it can be done!) I have an old copy of the pattern so I use the “preemie” size as my newborn size because it runs quite large but I believe the new copies have remedied that situation and are true to size.

As far as fabric goes, I am a bit of a knit novice. I tried a couple of different knit fabrics until I got my hands on “Sea Island Knit” and I have not touched a different brand since. It comes in only four colors which is a bit of a downer but it is the most scrumptious, soft, sturdy knit out there. I have been told it is the fabric kissy kissy uses. You can find it in several places. Children’s Corner Store has it available here https://goo.gl/MjegYR. Farmhouse Fabrics carries it here https://goo.gl/1XjvTV. And The Sewing Room in Birmingham has it here https://goo.gl/eSkxqR. The Sewing Room in Birmingham also has a Liberty of London knit which I suspect is magnificent but I have yet to test it out. If one of y’all have used it and can let me know if its as amazing as I expect it is that would be great!

As much as I love the knit nightie and Sea Island Knit….I love smocking too. I saw a picture of a sweet gown similar to the one below and decided that my knit nighties needed a smocked insert and a fuller bottom.

 

 

https://goo.gl/KVqPqZ

 

As a knit novice, I am most certainly a smocked knit novice, so a bit of research had to be done. I scoured the internet for blogs on pleating and smocking knit and found that if you use a good quality knit, its basically the same as pleating any other type of fabric. I experimented pleating two different types of knit and found that, as with everything else, sea island was still my favorite. The main thing to take into consideration when pleating knit is the stretch. The stretch should run in the same direction as the pleating needles.

---

Adding a Pleated Insert to the Knit Nightie and Drafting a Pattern for a Fuller Bottom.

1. As seen in the pictures, I marked directly on my pattern-if you do not want to do that trace the knit nightie pattern onto tracing paper. Make sure to label each traced piece with its given name. When I refer to “the pattern” in the future steps I will be referring to this traced pattern.

Bodice Patterns

1. Begin with the “front” pattern piece. Measure 2-3 inches down from the center of the neck to the body of the pattern piece. Draw a horizontal line connecting the marks across the pattern. This is the top line seen in the image below. To create the bottom line, measure 3/4 down from the end of the arm pit, create a horizontal line at this location. 
2. At this time I traced the top piece, the new insert and the skirt. Set the traced skirt pattern aside.  Make sure to mark the seam allowance, fold location, shoulder mark, and title of the new pieces on the traced pattern.
3. Next, using the “back” pattern piece measure 3/4 inches down from the end of the arm pit body of the pattern piece. Draw a horizontal line at this location. At this time I traced the new top piece of the pattern as seen in image below. Again, transfer all the marks to the new, traced piece. 

 

 

Skirt Patterns

1. Using the gown back, trace the new skirt front and back pattern by extending the width of the center line three inches. This will allow for a very full bottom skirt. I also took into account a seam allowance of 3/4″ at this time. This can be seen in the image below.

   

---

New pattern pieces created:

-front bodice pattern

-back bodice pattern

-front/back skirt pattern

-blocking guide

-You will need to use the original “sleeve” pattern pieces from the pattern as well.

---

Place the pattern pieces on the fabric as seen in the image below. Cut fabric. 

 

Smocked Insert

1. Cut a rectangular piece of fabric 4 inches tall and 30 inches wide. This will be used for the insert. Make sure that the grain runs vertically on this piece of fabric.
2. Run this piece of fabric through the pleater creating the desired number of rows. I like to use half rows when pleating a knit insert. I find it helps my pleats stand up during smocking.
3. Smock desired number of rows leaving the top and bottom as holding rows (I typically back smock those rows).
4. Back smock each row of the insert. Knit is floppy; I find that this helps my pleats stand up.

Constructing the Gown

Front

1. Sew 1/4 inch piping at the bottom of the front bodice.
2. Attach the blocked, pleated insert to the gown bodice. Use the blocking guide you created when tracing your pattern. Press seam. 
3. Place 1/4 inch piping on the bottom of the pleated insert.
4. Run three gathering threads along the top of the front skirt piece as seen below.

   

5. Gather the skirt to match the bottom of the pleated insert. Pin (making sure gathers are evenly distributed) and stitch right-sides together. Open and press seam.

Back

1. Sew 1/4 inch piping at the bottom of the back bodice.
2. Run three gathering threads along the top of the back skirt piece.
3. Gather the skirt to match the bottom of the back bodice piece. Pin (making sure gathers are evenly distributed) and stitch right-sides together. Open and press seam.

 

 

You can now follow the pattern as written!

 

If you love smocking, this is a simple way to create a “modern” smocked garment. If given as a gift you can rest assured knowing that this will be a treasured and frequently worn piece. If you need ideas on fabric combinations head over to my pinterest page!