When I first learned to smock I remember being taught about blocking, having no understanding of what I was doing and then assuming that smocking was too hard for me. This prevented me from smocking for quite some time. When I finally regained the courage to do it, I purchased a million pre-pleated inserts and just practiced. After that, I was hooked, and I was already smocking straight. I stuck to inserts (give me all the Michie Playsuits and Alan’s bubbles!) and did not venture out.
When I finally attempted a Bishop, I did so with help. My friend Margy and I pleated the Bishop below using the methods I discussed last week. See this post for pleating. I smocked it as though it were an insert (but made sure to use a Bishop smocking plate) and I have never looked back. There are quite a few errors in the bishop below but the one big issue it does not have is smocking that is too tight. Some people believe you have to block (or steam into place) your bishop prior to smocking in order to prevent ” turtlenecking”. This is simply not the case in this method.
If you are familiar with centering smocking plates on a bishop and feel fairly confident about your smocking, skip down to the portion of the blog titled “Constructing Bishop Once Smocked Straight.” If you are new to smocking and would like some tips on centering and perfecting your smocking on a bishop start at number one below.
How to Smock a Bishop Straight.
You must choose a smocking plate that is for a bishop. If you do not choose a plate that has more “stretchy” stitches toward the bottom of it will not work.
*Make sure to avoid stabbing a pleating thread when smocking.
- Center smocking by counting pleats. Begin smocking in the valley to the left of the center pleat. Or in accordance to the directions on the smocking plate.
- Begin smocking from the center of the first row of geometric smocking. Refer to images to the right.
- Smock that row from the center to the right side of the bishop. When the last pattern is formed and complete. Pull smocking thread to the back and tie off. This may or may not be the last pleat.
- Flip the bishop upside down so that the future neckline of the bishop is now closest to you. Return to the center pleat and complete the first row by smocking to the right until the last pattern is formed and complete. Pull smocking threads to the back and tie off. Again, this may or may not be the last pleat.
- Complete Smocking using Smocking Plate.
- As seen in the image below. the bishop will naturally start to curve.
- Help the bishop form a circle by moving the dress and pleats around with your fingers.
Constructing Bishop Once Smocked Straight.
The step number to which the picture correlates is indicated on the image.
1. Bishop is wider than bias band. 
2. Using pleating threads pull bishop up. 
3. Fan out the bottom. 
4 and 5. Apply double-sided tape. 
6. Stitch between tape. 
7. Remove bottom tape. 
8. Remove film from top piece of tape. 
8. Place bias band on tape. 
9. Flip bishop and sew bias band to dress. 
TAH DAH!
- Bishop will be stretched out further than the bias band. Refer to the image marked #1.
- Scrunch pleats up so that they are more narrow than the bias band. This will not be easy if you’ve accidentally stabbed a pleating thread, so make sure to avoid doing that when smocking. Refer to the image marked #2.
- Fan out the bottom of the smocking and line up the top with the bias band. Refer to the image marked #3.
- Lay a piece of double-sided wash-away tape directly on the top cable as seen in the image marked 4 and 5. Do not remove the top layer of protective film.
- Lay another piece of double-sided wash away tape, a needle width apart, to the top of the first piece. Do not remove the top layer of protective film. Refer to the image on the right. These pieces of tape provide enough stability. Back smocking is not necessary if tape is used as written.
- Machine stitch a standard straight stitch between the two layers of tape. Refer to the image marked #6.
- Remove the tape covering the top cable row. Refer to the image marked #7.
- Remove protective layer of film from the top of the double-side piece of tape. Place the right side of the bias band on the piece of tape. Line the bias band’s top edge up with the top edge of the pleating. The tape will not be enough to secure the bias band, pin as well. Refer to the image marked #8.
- Flip bishop to the wrong side and sew another line of stitches on the previous stitch line. This will attach the bias band to the neck of the bishop. Refer to the image marked #9.
- At this point continue to follow the bishop pattern in use to complete the bishop. If the bishop was pleated as indicated in the previous blog post. Trimming away from the neckline is not necessary before flipping the bias band to the other side.
Many many thanks to Margy Hood for making the bishop seen in the images and taking the images. Hope y’all enjoy 🙂
